The popular HBO show “Deadwood,” set in America’s Wild West in the 1870s,
came away with five Emmy wins this year in creative arts categories, including
Outstanding Makeup for a Series (Non-Prosthetic). We spoke with makeup artist
Adam Brandy, assistant department head of makeup on the award-winning “Deadwood”
makeup team. From wealthy Victorian ladies to painted ladies of the saloon and
dapper business men to grimy prospectors, Brandy tells his story of what it
means to create makeup for a cast that includes a staggering array of
characters. Brandy, who graduated from the M.G. Westmore Academy of Cosmetic
Arts and apprenticed at Allan A. Apone’s Makeup Effects Laboratory, began his
career as a makeup artist 17 years ago. “I come from a showbiz family. My father
is one of the top press agents from his era to date and my mother was a Las
Vegas Chorus Line Dancer, so it followed that I would fall prey to the seduction
of the ‘industry.’ Makeup became the path because of my teenage hobby of
creating Halloween makeup for family and friends.”
A lot has happened since those days of Halloween makeup. During his career
Brandy has worked on “Hildalgo,” “Three Kings,” and “Star Trek: Voyager,” among
many other features and television series. His most recent work on "Deadwood,"
however, has been perhaps his most inspiring makeup job to date and the reason
seems resoundingly clear. “Two words,” says Brandy. “David Milch! His wild
imagination and spin on life offers the artist the most fertile ground on which
to ply one’s craft. Each script allowed our creativity to flow freely. When John
Rizzo ["Deadwood" makeup department head] and I were first awarded the makeup
department, we knew that we would garner industry and peer recognition—it was
such a plum assignment.”
Brandy is referring to creator, executive producer and head writer of
“Deadwood,” David Milch, whose work on "Hill Street Blues" and "NYPD Blue" make
him no stranger to award-winning dramas. In an interview posted on the official
HBO "Deadwood" site, Milch had this to say about the real life Deadwood, North
Dakota. "This is the equivalent of the first amphibians coming out of the
primordial ooze. In March, there was nothing. All the whites were
lurking in the hills. In June, there were 10,000 people there. That's a lot of
people to move to Buffalo, let alone Indian Territory. It was not part of
America. They were an outlaw community, and they knew it.”
It is precisely
that kind of chaos and robust life that comes through in the television
version of Deadwood and what makes the show so compelling. The broad scope of
the show also brings with it particular challenges when creating makeup effects
that are as earthy and raw as the production itself. “It’s the sheer volume of
work that is challenging," says Brandy. “Deadwood is so large scale. Research was
the key. The look of the show is crafted through hand-laid beards, lace hair
pieces and out-of-kit makeup for the most part. We also utilized small gelatin
and foam rubber appliances—created by Howard Berger’s K&B Creations—as well
as special dental “plumpers” that I created for some of our more intense makeup
creations.”
As for all that dirt, well, in Hollywood, when is dirt ever really just dirt?
As Brandy explains, "Deadwood Dirt" is created each week by Mark Bussan. “It’s
the grossest mix of cosmetic ingredients ever concocted—a perfect brew for a
gritty show,” says Brandy.
It takes much more than dirt and plumpers to ensure that makeup for a cast as
large as Deadwood's runs smoothly. Brandy attributes much of the production
finessing to John Rizzo. “John Rizzo’s great strength as a department head,”
says Brandy “is his advanced scouting." "He always has a finger on the pulse of
the production.” Brandy jokes that he “suspects Rizzo placed bugs in the
writer’s office.”
All joking aside, Brandy insists that “Deadwood is really a read-and-react
kind of playing field. There is a ton of planning on the fly. I am proud to say
that it was a daily challenge that John, Ron and myself handled almost
flawlessly.”
Above all else, what seems to be the most important element in making this
such a successful team is professionalism and a high level of mutual respect.
“John Rizzo raised the level of his creative artistry to new heights,” says
Brandy. "Ron Snyder is, simply, a master of his craft and Carol Pershing, Terrell
Baliel and Kimberly Spiteri are the best trio of stylists I have ever worked
with. They truly are worthy of their Emmy Awards.”